Saturday, April 24, 2010
Both of these trucks are making me drool. I like comparisons like this because although this one is shallow, it takes an honest approach when evaluating the trucks. I get a little tired sometimes of brand loyal people trashing every other truck besides 'their' brand. The fact of the matter is, all three are good or else they wouldn't be around. Besides, any stock truck is made to drive untuned down paved roads. In order to bring out the performance we all want, a significant amount of stock parts have to be replaced (suspension, tires, transmission, countless engine parts...), making the brand irrelevant... just a thought.
Wednesday, March 24, 2010
Stacks!!
Finally installed my stack pipes today. It took my about 2-3 hours. Everything went pretty well except the front channel on my truck is closed in on all sides and there was no way to install the clamps. I created another way to fix the problem as seen in the video.
Another problem was the clamps which didn't seem to clamp. When I got home from my first drive I noticed the flex tube popped off underneath. I went ahead and welded the pipes in place instead of the clamps.
With all the problems out of the way the results are beautiful. It is really really loud when you hammer it, the vibrations shake everything. On the interstate when you hammer it at around 60mph, it sounds louder than a lot of semi trucks.
Love it!!
Monday, March 22, 2010
Spring Break
I had grand plans of installing my new stack pipes over spring break. Well, things did not quite go as planned. The stacks I ordered have been out of stock for about a month and only just yesterday was the money charged so I'm assuming they are finally on their way. I don't really have a lot of time since school is going to be insane for this last month and since I'm going to be doing a mower restoration because I'm mowerless and grass cutting season is rapidly approaching. However, I'm sure I'll find time to squeeze in the installation during my 1.5 free days per week, after all, it should only take a few hours.
I have been thoroughly enjoying the new air dog on my truck but I have yet to get a fuel economy number as I haven't used up a full tank since the installation. I need to go over the installation here on the blog for those seeking to know more info, maybe I'll do a youtube video or something.
The mower restoration project will be posted on my other blog.
I have been thoroughly enjoying the new air dog on my truck but I have yet to get a fuel economy number as I haven't used up a full tank since the installation. I need to go over the installation here on the blog for those seeking to know more info, maybe I'll do a youtube video or something.
The mower restoration project will be posted on my other blog.
Friday, March 5, 2010
beautiful 7.3L
The 7.3L Ford is a legend. I think there will be an eternal following of this wonderful motor.
The other day I was pondering the possibilities of 7.3L swapping and I ran across something very interesting. This is from the horsepower shop, it is called the Black Mamba 7.3L. They sell several built up versions, including one of the '94-'98's and two of the '99-'02 motors. This motor here is the most powerful one they sell which comes in at 500HP and 900Ft-Lbs. They've completely rebuilt this thing to make honest horsepower, not chipped horsepower. You could theoretically get another 100hp with a chip. After having a bone stock 7.3 which probably made under 200HP, I can imagine this would be one sweet ride. Check the link out to see what they've done to this motor. I'm really impressed with the solid upgrades they've put on this thing; not only would it be insanely powerful, it would last forever!
This is a 1970 I found on ebay this week. Buy it now was under $5k. This would be a perfect candidate for a black Mamba Powerstroke. if I had the money this beauty would be mine. This brings up another point... For $5k you could buy this truck, another $10k would get you a donor truck and the black mamba. So for $15-$20k you're getting an epic one of a kind ride... or you could spend $40,000 on a base model new truck. I'd go for the vintage muscle any day of the week.
The other day I was pondering the possibilities of 7.3L swapping and I ran across something very interesting. This is from the horsepower shop, it is called the Black Mamba 7.3L. They sell several built up versions, including one of the '94-'98's and two of the '99-'02 motors. This motor here is the most powerful one they sell which comes in at 500HP and 900Ft-Lbs. They've completely rebuilt this thing to make honest horsepower, not chipped horsepower. You could theoretically get another 100hp with a chip. After having a bone stock 7.3 which probably made under 200HP, I can imagine this would be one sweet ride. Check the link out to see what they've done to this motor. I'm really impressed with the solid upgrades they've put on this thing; not only would it be insanely powerful, it would last forever!
This is a 1970 I found on ebay this week. Buy it now was under $5k. This would be a perfect candidate for a black Mamba Powerstroke. if I had the money this beauty would be mine. This brings up another point... For $5k you could buy this truck, another $10k would get you a donor truck and the black mamba. So for $15-$20k you're getting an epic one of a kind ride... or you could spend $40,000 on a base model new truck. I'd go for the vintage muscle any day of the week.
Sunday, February 28, 2010
Are diesels good anymore; Reply!
Steve, I agree with your concern for the new line up of diesels. I think that we could learn a little from the Germans about diesel performance, Especially with all the new emissions standards. I know that the restrictions on emissions over there are not what they are here, 'I guess it's not as warm as here.' They have years of experience, so maybe we should tap into the knowledge of those around us, and learn from each other. (a bit of positive thinking)
So what of diesels they put in semi trucks, will they be hit with this new wave of environmental Bull shit. They are on a similar platform as today's fleet trucks, especially with the trend being more torque and horsepower.
In my opinion I will give the big companies a brake, considering they are not the ones enforcing all these new emission standards. I would call it a learning curve! Not only for the engineers but for government to realize that we can't financially function under such laws. And if they don't... then say goodbye to the world as we know it in the automotive realm. In these next few years it might be a lag in the system for good trucks, but it will have to come back around to some reasonable standard.
It is sad how the new trucks tend to be more expensive, less reliable, and a higher cost of ownership. I just say have faith, there will be a 7.3 & 5.9 in the future for us to play with. If not we can just play with the old boys! maybe I should go into engineering and just make my own, or you could have your brother design one for us. lol. I do get your concern for these new trucks, I just don't think it can last for long. Ford will be under so much pressure to keep up there reputation that they won't put out inefficient vehicles for long.
Till then...
Trent
So what of diesels they put in semi trucks, will they be hit with this new wave of environmental Bull shit. They are on a similar platform as today's fleet trucks, especially with the trend being more torque and horsepower.
In my opinion I will give the big companies a brake, considering they are not the ones enforcing all these new emission standards. I would call it a learning curve! Not only for the engineers but for government to realize that we can't financially function under such laws. And if they don't... then say goodbye to the world as we know it in the automotive realm. In these next few years it might be a lag in the system for good trucks, but it will have to come back around to some reasonable standard.
It is sad how the new trucks tend to be more expensive, less reliable, and a higher cost of ownership. I just say have faith, there will be a 7.3 & 5.9 in the future for us to play with. If not we can just play with the old boys! maybe I should go into engineering and just make my own, or you could have your brother design one for us. lol. I do get your concern for these new trucks, I just don't think it can last for long. Ford will be under so much pressure to keep up there reputation that they won't put out inefficient vehicles for long.
Till then...
Trent
Saturday, February 27, 2010
Are diesels good anymore?
I started getting into diesels just as the first emission standards were taking effect. At that point, diesels were known for their bulletproof reliability, excellent fuel economy, and power. Well, the winds are changing in my opinion.
I'll start with ford. The 7.3L was the motor of motors. Ford had such a great reputation with this motor because of its durability, fuel economy, and awesome power. I would say this motor made the superduty Fords the truck of choice for many fleet owners. Emission standards kicked in and the 6.0L was the replacement. Ford might have stuck with the 7.3L if it wasn't for these new standards. The new motor was rushed through production without enough testing which resulted in widespread failure for the first couple of years. Just a few years later the 6.4L replaced the troubled 6.0L, and most of the bugs were worked out... well, except for fuel economy. Most people only get in the lower teens, compared to almost 20mpg's with the old 7.3. While the engine may be more 'green' I think any environmental advantage is lost when you compare the amount of fuel that is burned... Nevertheless, government people don't really have any reasoning skills so we the consumer have to pay the price at the pump. The newest 6.7 that will be debuting in a few months will hopefully regain some of Ford's lost ground. I have my fingers crossed. The new motor will have plenty of power and supposedly the fuel economy will be back up to 7.3L levels... However, one thing concerns me... and that is reliability. The motor has aluminum heads which might work or it might prove to be a weak link... and they are squeezing 390HP and 700+Ft.Lbs. of torque out of the motor. I think they are over powering the motor just a little... Another reason I'm nervous is because this motor was rushed through production extremely fast. Being Ford's first in house powerstroke, I can foresee there being some issues with the motor down the road... Only time will tell.
Cummins... many many people complain about the latest 6.7L. From the vast amount of time I've spent reading about all these problems, I conclude that the motor itself is great, in fact it might even have more potential than the previous 5.9L just because of the larger displacement. However, once again the stock setup with all the EPA equipment make the motor very temperamental and less fuel efficient. Someday I will probably own a 6.7L and the first thing I will do is remove all the EPA junk. The 6.7 is essentially an over-bored 5.9... from my understanding they needed to make it bigger in order to deliver the same power as the 5.9 since the EPA junk is so restrictive. For a personal hobby vehicle the 6.7L is great, because with a few deletes and mods it just as good as the 5.9, however if I was to buy a fleet of vehicle I would shy away from it.
Duramax... I've heard from several people that the duramax might just be the most reliable newer diesel out there. The first duramax engines were plagued with problems, similar to the newer Ford's and Cummins'. However, they have had a long time to work out these issues, and having started with a motor that is more EPA friendly, they haven't had to make quite as many drastic changes, giving them more time for refinement. Granted the new motors still suffer because of EPA equipment, but since the motor itself has essentially remained unchanged, they haven't had to go through all the new motor traumas that the others have had.
All this being said I have to ask myself a question. If I was buying a fleet of vehicles for a business, what would I buy? Well, I would sit down and determine what would be the most cost effective in the long run... Right now I would have to say I would probably not buy diesel trucks. The EPA has made it so a diesel is no longer the most reliable, cost effective option. First of all, the extra cost of a diesel is between $5K-10K, and this is probably reasonable considering the amount of research and development that is required to make these new motors that no one wants. Secondly, diesels are no longer significantly more fuel efficient than a gasser. Thirdly, and probably most importantly, I've heard several fleet owners say that the new gas motors stay out of the shop a lot more than the new diesels. The forth and last reason is maintenance costs. A diesel is going to cost a lot more to maintain than a gas motor. Now that a lot of the new diesels are requiring Urea, maintenance costs are going to be even more.
Don't get me wrong, I love diesels, and its very sad to watch them fade from their glory. However, aside from a hobby, it just doesn't seem like it would be efficient to own a diesel anymore, and all this can be blamed on the EPA standards. Perhaps someday the automakers can catch up to the standards, but for now its all so shaky. If I had to choose a fleet of trucks I would probably go with either Chevy or Ford Gassers. I know that either of these trucks would be good for a couple hundred thousand trouble free miles. I can't say the same for the new diesels.
I'll start with ford. The 7.3L was the motor of motors. Ford had such a great reputation with this motor because of its durability, fuel economy, and awesome power. I would say this motor made the superduty Fords the truck of choice for many fleet owners. Emission standards kicked in and the 6.0L was the replacement. Ford might have stuck with the 7.3L if it wasn't for these new standards. The new motor was rushed through production without enough testing which resulted in widespread failure for the first couple of years. Just a few years later the 6.4L replaced the troubled 6.0L, and most of the bugs were worked out... well, except for fuel economy. Most people only get in the lower teens, compared to almost 20mpg's with the old 7.3. While the engine may be more 'green' I think any environmental advantage is lost when you compare the amount of fuel that is burned... Nevertheless, government people don't really have any reasoning skills so we the consumer have to pay the price at the pump. The newest 6.7 that will be debuting in a few months will hopefully regain some of Ford's lost ground. I have my fingers crossed. The new motor will have plenty of power and supposedly the fuel economy will be back up to 7.3L levels... However, one thing concerns me... and that is reliability. The motor has aluminum heads which might work or it might prove to be a weak link... and they are squeezing 390HP and 700+Ft.Lbs. of torque out of the motor. I think they are over powering the motor just a little... Another reason I'm nervous is because this motor was rushed through production extremely fast. Being Ford's first in house powerstroke, I can foresee there being some issues with the motor down the road... Only time will tell.
Cummins... many many people complain about the latest 6.7L. From the vast amount of time I've spent reading about all these problems, I conclude that the motor itself is great, in fact it might even have more potential than the previous 5.9L just because of the larger displacement. However, once again the stock setup with all the EPA equipment make the motor very temperamental and less fuel efficient. Someday I will probably own a 6.7L and the first thing I will do is remove all the EPA junk. The 6.7 is essentially an over-bored 5.9... from my understanding they needed to make it bigger in order to deliver the same power as the 5.9 since the EPA junk is so restrictive. For a personal hobby vehicle the 6.7L is great, because with a few deletes and mods it just as good as the 5.9, however if I was to buy a fleet of vehicle I would shy away from it.
Duramax... I've heard from several people that the duramax might just be the most reliable newer diesel out there. The first duramax engines were plagued with problems, similar to the newer Ford's and Cummins'. However, they have had a long time to work out these issues, and having started with a motor that is more EPA friendly, they haven't had to make quite as many drastic changes, giving them more time for refinement. Granted the new motors still suffer because of EPA equipment, but since the motor itself has essentially remained unchanged, they haven't had to go through all the new motor traumas that the others have had.
All this being said I have to ask myself a question. If I was buying a fleet of vehicles for a business, what would I buy? Well, I would sit down and determine what would be the most cost effective in the long run... Right now I would have to say I would probably not buy diesel trucks. The EPA has made it so a diesel is no longer the most reliable, cost effective option. First of all, the extra cost of a diesel is between $5K-10K, and this is probably reasonable considering the amount of research and development that is required to make these new motors that no one wants. Secondly, diesels are no longer significantly more fuel efficient than a gasser. Thirdly, and probably most importantly, I've heard several fleet owners say that the new gas motors stay out of the shop a lot more than the new diesels. The forth and last reason is maintenance costs. A diesel is going to cost a lot more to maintain than a gas motor. Now that a lot of the new diesels are requiring Urea, maintenance costs are going to be even more.
Don't get me wrong, I love diesels, and its very sad to watch them fade from their glory. However, aside from a hobby, it just doesn't seem like it would be efficient to own a diesel anymore, and all this can be blamed on the EPA standards. Perhaps someday the automakers can catch up to the standards, but for now its all so shaky. If I had to choose a fleet of trucks I would probably go with either Chevy or Ford Gassers. I know that either of these trucks would be good for a couple hundred thousand trouble free miles. I can't say the same for the new diesels.
Airdog installation
Yesterday my airdog 150 arrived at around 11am. After a quick lunch I began sorting everything out. The kit is fabulous!! I bought a couple things before starting the install, such as black paint for the frame, blue thread sealer, dielectric grease, and hose clamps for all the fittings. I know you technically don't need hose clamps but I've blown more than one air compressor hose and a hose clamp always fixes the problem...
Everything went together really well and it was pretty easy except for the fact that it was 20 degrees outside, the wind was blowing at about 20 MPH, and the driveway was a sheet of ice where I was working, making for a really cold ass.
I mounted the bracket first, then connected the new hose to the vp44. I went ahead and took out the factory fuel filter because it was kinda in the way. Then I cut the hose and fabricated the end connections. Next I cut the tank fill up tube to install the fuel return line. Got all that taken care of and then ran the hose from there to the air dog... now for the part that everyone hates..
I really didn't want to drop the tank and since there is a nice sized gap between the bed and the tank because of the way my truck is put together, I was able to get away with just using a 90 degree drill attachment I bought at Home Depot. I also bought a 1" hole maker thingy... It called for 1 1/8", but they only had 1" and 1 1/4". A few rounds with the dremel and the hole was big enough... I brushed off as much of the shavings as I could but the hole part went in the tank on me... oh well, it floats right? I was hoping it would stick to the bit like wood often does.
After installing the draw tube and making all the connections I bolted the airdog in place and tightened all 3 hoses in place...
Now for the electrical stuff... They made this really easy... the wiring harness looks like a huge spider with like 5 or six really long wires coming off of a main box... you only need three of these wires, the rest are for other things you can plug up to the system such as a low fuel pressure warning light... all I had to do was simply unplug the old lift pump and plug in the new clip, run another connection to the pump and plug it in, and finally connect wires to the battery terminals.
I just let the pump run a few cycles and then hit the starter for about 20 seconds and she started coughing to life. Right away I could tell the idling was smooth; there was no doubt she was getting enough fuel... all the fuel line connections were ok but the breather connection on the filler tube was leaking... after repositioning the clamps and tightening them really tight the leak was no more.
I finished at about 5pm... So it took about 5 hours including 2 hardware store trips... not too bad.
I took her for a test drive on the interstate and sure enough everything's good as new. All my bucking symptoms are gone and the power is back where it was, it might be just a little better even. Now I can rest assured that my vp44 is getting enough pressure... and I've placed the first foundation stone on which to build more modifications... When I read about the vp44 before I got my truck I told myself that I wasn't going to do any big upgrades until I took care of the fuel pump... Now it's time to add power... time for a Smarty next!!!
Everything went together really well and it was pretty easy except for the fact that it was 20 degrees outside, the wind was blowing at about 20 MPH, and the driveway was a sheet of ice where I was working, making for a really cold ass.
I mounted the bracket first, then connected the new hose to the vp44. I went ahead and took out the factory fuel filter because it was kinda in the way. Then I cut the hose and fabricated the end connections. Next I cut the tank fill up tube to install the fuel return line. Got all that taken care of and then ran the hose from there to the air dog... now for the part that everyone hates..
I really didn't want to drop the tank and since there is a nice sized gap between the bed and the tank because of the way my truck is put together, I was able to get away with just using a 90 degree drill attachment I bought at Home Depot. I also bought a 1" hole maker thingy... It called for 1 1/8", but they only had 1" and 1 1/4". A few rounds with the dremel and the hole was big enough... I brushed off as much of the shavings as I could but the hole part went in the tank on me... oh well, it floats right? I was hoping it would stick to the bit like wood often does.
After installing the draw tube and making all the connections I bolted the airdog in place and tightened all 3 hoses in place...
Now for the electrical stuff... They made this really easy... the wiring harness looks like a huge spider with like 5 or six really long wires coming off of a main box... you only need three of these wires, the rest are for other things you can plug up to the system such as a low fuel pressure warning light... all I had to do was simply unplug the old lift pump and plug in the new clip, run another connection to the pump and plug it in, and finally connect wires to the battery terminals.
I just let the pump run a few cycles and then hit the starter for about 20 seconds and she started coughing to life. Right away I could tell the idling was smooth; there was no doubt she was getting enough fuel... all the fuel line connections were ok but the breather connection on the filler tube was leaking... after repositioning the clamps and tightening them really tight the leak was no more.
I finished at about 5pm... So it took about 5 hours including 2 hardware store trips... not too bad.
I took her for a test drive on the interstate and sure enough everything's good as new. All my bucking symptoms are gone and the power is back where it was, it might be just a little better even. Now I can rest assured that my vp44 is getting enough pressure... and I've placed the first foundation stone on which to build more modifications... When I read about the vp44 before I got my truck I told myself that I wasn't going to do any big upgrades until I took care of the fuel pump... Now it's time to add power... time for a Smarty next!!!
Sunday, February 21, 2010
Stack Hardware Purchased
I spoke earlier of how I was going to put together a custom high flow exhaust system. After running the numbers for all the parts and shipping costs it came out to be more than just buying a regular system. I would have to pay close to $400 for all the parts and that would give me an aluminized/galvanized system. For only $310 Silverline sells a stainless stack kit, (minus the tips) and Xtremediesel.com has free shipping. The kit plumbs into your 4" pipe and changes over to five right before the split in the bed. This setup works perfectly with what I have so I went ahead and ordered one. It will be nice to have everything I need right in the kit... it is fun to put stuff together yourself but it is so time consuming getting everything together... Also, stainless is the best.
I can't wait until Spring break to install this and the airdog!!
Little disappointed because Xtremediesel.com says that both the airdog and stack kit won't be in stock until sometime in march... If this type of service is normal I might start shopping elsewhere.
Thursday, February 18, 2010
The Bucking Saga
So a couple weeks ago my truck started behaving strangely. First I would get intermitent dead pedal when starting out on a cold day...Then one day it started really acting up... on the highway when I would be getting up to speed on the ramp the whole thing would start bucking at about 45mph at high rpm before shifting into overdrive. Initially I thought this was the Transmission since it always seemed to happen around shift points. However, after further diagnosis and much time on forums I think the problem is in the fuel system. Also, when I'm travelling on the highway at 60mph and smash the gas it feels like the engine is choking out, this symptom would probably not be related to the tranny. When I first got the truck smashing the gas at 60 meant a thrashing back in the seat and a quick trip to 100... I think the reason it is bucking around shift points is because it is using more fuel being at a higher rpm...
I'm getting code p0230 which has to do with the lift pump circuitry... I'm not sure exactly what that means but given the amount of people that have problems with the lift pump, and given the fuel starved symtoms of the truck, I would have to reason that it's on its way out.
Also, when you hit the starter the lift pump is supposed to run for 25 seconds... I was hearing it yesterday when I was doing some diagnosis but she's quiet as baby Jesus today...
Anyways, not hearing the lift pump was the last straw. Running without a good lift pump screws up the injection pump and I want to put off spending 2k for as long as possible... I just hope she's not bad already. I ordered an airdog 150 today and I don't plan on running my truck until she's installed.
Been doing some in depth reading on forums about airdog installs and it appears as though you can go ahead and remove all the old lines, the fuel filter, and the factory lift pump; that sounds really good to me because I'm looking to do some cleaning up under the hood. The huge airdog fuel lines hook right up the the vp44.
I'm getting code p0230 which has to do with the lift pump circuitry... I'm not sure exactly what that means but given the amount of people that have problems with the lift pump, and given the fuel starved symtoms of the truck, I would have to reason that it's on its way out.
Also, when you hit the starter the lift pump is supposed to run for 25 seconds... I was hearing it yesterday when I was doing some diagnosis but she's quiet as baby Jesus today...
Anyways, not hearing the lift pump was the last straw. Running without a good lift pump screws up the injection pump and I want to put off spending 2k for as long as possible... I just hope she's not bad already. I ordered an airdog 150 today and I don't plan on running my truck until she's installed.
Been doing some in depth reading on forums about airdog installs and it appears as though you can go ahead and remove all the old lines, the fuel filter, and the factory lift pump; that sounds really good to me because I'm looking to do some cleaning up under the hood. The huge airdog fuel lines hook right up the the vp44.
Thursday, February 11, 2010
Sweet Fords
Steve I know you have showed me the new super duty trucks but I haven't seen this new F-150 Raptor SVT!!!
Now for one hell of a 7.3 Holy smokes!!!
Sunday, February 7, 2010
pieces coming together
Here is a set of 5"x32"chrome stacks I scored on ebay for a mere $38. Brand new these things run about $70-$100 each. So that takes care of the most expensive part of the upgrade.
Sure 5" won't be the largest stacks around, but in my opinion they are the right size for the job... I might have used 6"if I had unlimited resources but for the price I'll live with fivers...
Saturday, January 30, 2010
Stacks
There are fans of stacks and there are fans of standard rear exhaust systems. Personally, I think there is a place for both. Stacks give a truck a much more robust and muscular look while rear exhaust is provides more of a sporty look.
I've decided that my '65 Ford is a good candidate for stacks. I think the stacks would give it a classic diesel look. The cab also has a very narrow stance with the back slanting forward slightly. This narrow side view doesn't look good in my opinion with the truck jacked up the way it is and I think stacks would sorta fill in this area.
Anyways, reasoning aside, I'm looking at options for this upgrade. If you go to the standard diesel shop or website you'll find prices for a complete duel stack kit around $1000. Well, I am certainly not going to pay that much if I can get away from it... So, I've been browsing around putting together a list of mixed parts to see how cheap I can make my own kit... I believe I could do it all for $300 and get an even higher performing system...
So I figured I would keep the downpipe that's on there which is only 4 inches, however, buying a 5 inch would definitely raise the price higher than I want to pay right now. At the end of the downpipe there will be a y pipe, and on the two ends of this 4-5" adapters. Two 5" flex pipes will go from there to both ends of the bed where there will be 45 degree elbows. Attached to these elbows will be 5" chrome pipes going about as high as the cab... (I already have a hard enough time in parking garages... no need to make it harder.)
I think this system will be better for several reasons. First the split comes earlier in the system allowing for a greater volume of flow before all the bends. Secondly, using flex pipe will make fewer sharp bends in the pipe. I may incorporate 45 bends after the y pipe as well... this would make for a total of 180 degrees of total bends (not counting flex pipe bending) instead of 540 degrees with the standard system...
Anyways, I'm planning on doing this upgrade during spring break... Until then I will continue research and start gathering materials.
I've decided that my '65 Ford is a good candidate for stacks. I think the stacks would give it a classic diesel look. The cab also has a very narrow stance with the back slanting forward slightly. This narrow side view doesn't look good in my opinion with the truck jacked up the way it is and I think stacks would sorta fill in this area.
Anyways, reasoning aside, I'm looking at options for this upgrade. If you go to the standard diesel shop or website you'll find prices for a complete duel stack kit around $1000. Well, I am certainly not going to pay that much if I can get away from it... So, I've been browsing around putting together a list of mixed parts to see how cheap I can make my own kit... I believe I could do it all for $300 and get an even higher performing system...
So I figured I would keep the downpipe that's on there which is only 4 inches, however, buying a 5 inch would definitely raise the price higher than I want to pay right now. At the end of the downpipe there will be a y pipe, and on the two ends of this 4-5" adapters. Two 5" flex pipes will go from there to both ends of the bed where there will be 45 degree elbows. Attached to these elbows will be 5" chrome pipes going about as high as the cab... (I already have a hard enough time in parking garages... no need to make it harder.)
I think this system will be better for several reasons. First the split comes earlier in the system allowing for a greater volume of flow before all the bends. Secondly, using flex pipe will make fewer sharp bends in the pipe. I may incorporate 45 bends after the y pipe as well... this would make for a total of 180 degrees of total bends (not counting flex pipe bending) instead of 540 degrees with the standard system...
Anyways, I'm planning on doing this upgrade during spring break... Until then I will continue research and start gathering materials.
Monday, January 25, 2010
Mercedes 617 diesel
So as you well know I've been putting a good bit of thought into doing a jeep diesel swap. Previously I have entertained using a cummins 4bt because it is a great motor and it's been done a million times. However, recent research has caused me to maybe consider a Mercedes 617 instead.
Back in the early 80's mercedes diesels were very popular in the states. The 123 frame mercedes were as bombproof as they come. I read that around 70% of the originally registered models are still on the road toady and there have been many reports of 1,000,000 mile cars still running strong... This motor is considered to be one of the most reliable engines ever produced... you make a car that good and you'll go out of business. Anyways, the 617 motor in these cars is a 3.0L 5 cylinder turbo diesel that makes about 100hp (of course this can be turned up). From what I can find these motors are really easy to work on and parts are readily available. The motor has indirect injection and an injection pump that is fairly similar to the legendary P7100 on the cummins.
There is a growing number of people that are swapping in these 617's. In fact in the past couple years they've started producing adapter kits for use with GM manual trannys... you can't beat that. From what i can tell the MB 617 is just as good if not better than the C 4bt as far as reliability is concerned and while the displacement might be larger on the 3.9L 4bt vs the 3.0L 617, they appear to make about the same power...
The cost of acquiring the Mercedes is much cheaper than a 4bt... you can buy a full out donor car for around 3k any day. For a decent 4bt you are looking at the same price for the engine alone unless you get lucky... and speaking of lucky, guys all over the web say they've scored old Mercedes cars for just a few hundred quid. There also appears to be a much larger support network for the MB 617 because of the amount of cars that used the engine as well as all of those loyal customers that are still using their 20+ year old cars.
So the Mercedes is looking like a much more practical option for a Jeep swap over the Cummins... I will probably post more about this as ideas begin to develop...
This is a 617 in an old toyota... MAN that fits in there good!
This is a Jeep comanche pickup...
Oh yeah, Trent did mention in a previous post about the 5cl Mercedes in the sprinter... These engines share some similarities but the new sprinter engines would be hard to swap for a number of reasons... We've both talked about this before... the old 617's on the other hand are pretty easy... I guess I just assumed previously that they would be finicky since most of those Euro vehicles are... like the VW diesel, great milage but a mechanic's nightmare.
Back in the early 80's mercedes diesels were very popular in the states. The 123 frame mercedes were as bombproof as they come. I read that around 70% of the originally registered models are still on the road toady and there have been many reports of 1,000,000 mile cars still running strong... This motor is considered to be one of the most reliable engines ever produced... you make a car that good and you'll go out of business. Anyways, the 617 motor in these cars is a 3.0L 5 cylinder turbo diesel that makes about 100hp (of course this can be turned up). From what I can find these motors are really easy to work on and parts are readily available. The motor has indirect injection and an injection pump that is fairly similar to the legendary P7100 on the cummins.
There is a growing number of people that are swapping in these 617's. In fact in the past couple years they've started producing adapter kits for use with GM manual trannys... you can't beat that. From what i can tell the MB 617 is just as good if not better than the C 4bt as far as reliability is concerned and while the displacement might be larger on the 3.9L 4bt vs the 3.0L 617, they appear to make about the same power...
The cost of acquiring the Mercedes is much cheaper than a 4bt... you can buy a full out donor car for around 3k any day. For a decent 4bt you are looking at the same price for the engine alone unless you get lucky... and speaking of lucky, guys all over the web say they've scored old Mercedes cars for just a few hundred quid. There also appears to be a much larger support network for the MB 617 because of the amount of cars that used the engine as well as all of those loyal customers that are still using their 20+ year old cars.
So the Mercedes is looking like a much more practical option for a Jeep swap over the Cummins... I will probably post more about this as ideas begin to develop...
This is a 617 in an old toyota... MAN that fits in there good!
This is a Jeep comanche pickup...
Oh yeah, Trent did mention in a previous post about the 5cl Mercedes in the sprinter... These engines share some similarities but the new sprinter engines would be hard to swap for a number of reasons... We've both talked about this before... the old 617's on the other hand are pretty easy... I guess I just assumed previously that they would be finicky since most of those Euro vehicles are... like the VW diesel, great milage but a mechanic's nightmare.
Saturday, January 23, 2010
vp44
It is a well known fact that the weakest link in the 24V 1998.5-2002 motor is the vp44 injector pump. The concept of having an electrically controlled injector pump sounds good and definitely makes for a more pure combustion due to it’s precise controls, however, somewhere along the lines Cummins dropped the ball on this one. Several reasons make the vp44 prone to failure.
Perhaps the most common flaw with the vp44 is the weak lift pump that came on the stock trucks. The lift pump was not strong enough to keep pressure to the injector pump which causes the housings to wear out causing the front diaphragm to fail. In addition to this, Cummins designed the fuel to act as both a lubricant and a cooler. The lubricant factor doesn’t work because the EPA has now outlawed high sulfur diesel which was standard when the engine was created and actually has lubricating power unlike the new low sulfur diesel. The cooling factor of course would be reduced if the volume of fuel was low due to a bad lift pump. The heating rises another issue which is the second major flaw with the injector pump. The fuel control computer is located right on top of the pump which is located right on the engine. Over time the heat of the engine causes this computer to slow down due to a crystallizing of the electronic components.
So, this sounds like a fairly desperate situation… what are we to do?
There are a couple options.
The P7100 mechanical pump on the older trucks can be swapped in place of a vp44. You do loose your electric control of the pump as well as a huge chunk of change. On top of buying a p7100 you would also have to buy about 1K-2K worth of modification parts just to put it on there. However, some people think it is well worth it and take this plunge. The p7100 is a bombproof pump which is oil lubricated and cooled. The mechanical reliability of this pump make it the pump of choice for those who modify their truck to the max.
You can replace the vp44 with an upgraded version and add a fass or airdog fuel pump. Blue chip diesel offers a specially made vp44 which has an updated computer as well as a super build job which gives 2-3 more MPG’s. Blue chip also sells a remote computer for controlling your fuel system which bypasses and overrides the computer on the pump itself. Blue chip has pretty much devoted their company to fixing this vp44 problem as well as making some other sweep parts for 1998.5-2002 Cummins motors.
I am fairly confidant that my vp44 is on its last leg. I sometimes get the dead pedal effect which is a sign of a failing vp44. When I finally get around to addressing the problem (when I have the money), I am planning on purchasing the blue chip vp44 with an air dog lift pump. Also, another sign your vp44 is failing is reduced fuel economy… and I’m getting about 3 mpgs less than I should.
Perhaps the most common flaw with the vp44 is the weak lift pump that came on the stock trucks. The lift pump was not strong enough to keep pressure to the injector pump which causes the housings to wear out causing the front diaphragm to fail. In addition to this, Cummins designed the fuel to act as both a lubricant and a cooler. The lubricant factor doesn’t work because the EPA has now outlawed high sulfur diesel which was standard when the engine was created and actually has lubricating power unlike the new low sulfur diesel. The cooling factor of course would be reduced if the volume of fuel was low due to a bad lift pump. The heating rises another issue which is the second major flaw with the injector pump. The fuel control computer is located right on top of the pump which is located right on the engine. Over time the heat of the engine causes this computer to slow down due to a crystallizing of the electronic components.
So, this sounds like a fairly desperate situation… what are we to do?
There are a couple options.
The P7100 mechanical pump on the older trucks can be swapped in place of a vp44. You do loose your electric control of the pump as well as a huge chunk of change. On top of buying a p7100 you would also have to buy about 1K-2K worth of modification parts just to put it on there. However, some people think it is well worth it and take this plunge. The p7100 is a bombproof pump which is oil lubricated and cooled. The mechanical reliability of this pump make it the pump of choice for those who modify their truck to the max.
You can replace the vp44 with an upgraded version and add a fass or airdog fuel pump. Blue chip diesel offers a specially made vp44 which has an updated computer as well as a super build job which gives 2-3 more MPG’s. Blue chip also sells a remote computer for controlling your fuel system which bypasses and overrides the computer on the pump itself. Blue chip has pretty much devoted their company to fixing this vp44 problem as well as making some other sweep parts for 1998.5-2002 Cummins motors.
I am fairly confidant that my vp44 is on its last leg. I sometimes get the dead pedal effect which is a sign of a failing vp44. When I finally get around to addressing the problem (when I have the money), I am planning on purchasing the blue chip vp44 with an air dog lift pump. Also, another sign your vp44 is failing is reduced fuel economy… and I’m getting about 3 mpgs less than I should.
Monday, January 18, 2010
Present - Future Trucks
So I decided to do a small (turns out to be large) amount of research on the new 2011 trucks being re-least, and all the new technology that they have put into the top truck models. I have found these new trucks on the high-end scale have every kind of pampered technology. These new machines might have more computer power than you might find in a primitive hospital today.
Ford has sync™ integrated throughout to manage your phone calls, Internet access, all your music needs, and voice activated Nav system. Site some other Info.
Chevy has their amazing On-Star™ system that combines safety and communication. It seems a bit pricey though,The renewal for this system can put you back $300 bucks a year, and a tracking signal for the cops when you raid the local liquor joints.
Dodge has a system called Uconnect™. I knew nothing about this system till I completed this research, it's a crazy complex system! I think it can do anything, built-in 3G, Play DVDs, (music and pics), stream SIRIUS, Tv, Radio, Voice activated navigation, and Bluetooth. Compatible with your at&t or Verizon subscription. And you might find a way to connect your gaming system, I do believe most Gm vehicles have this option.
Ford has sync™ integrated throughout to manage your phone calls, Internet access, all your music needs, and voice activated Nav system. Site some other Info.
Chevy has their amazing On-Star™ system that combines safety and communication. It seems a bit pricey though,The renewal for this system can put you back $300 bucks a year, and a tracking signal for the cops when you raid the local liquor joints.
Dodge has a system called Uconnect™. I knew nothing about this system till I completed this research, it's a crazy complex system! I think it can do anything, built-in 3G, Play DVDs, (music and pics), stream SIRIUS, Tv, Radio, Voice activated navigation, and Bluetooth. Compatible with your at&t or Verizon subscription. And you might find a way to connect your gaming system, I do believe most Gm vehicles have this option.
There is some crazy technology out there being woven into our lives, very interesting to observe. Now I won't do much research on Toyota's Tundra, but it has a comparable system called BLU Logic™ that gives you a hands free phone capabilities, along with XM satellite radio, and Ipod integrations. So I can safely say that whatever truck you buy it will have capabilities that were not seen in vehicles 10 years ago, or the average house-hold for that matter.
These New trucks coming off the lot are going for $55-65,000. That is with all the options!
So on-to the meat about these beast, the amazing things God created, and man fit into... The American Truck!!!
Starting off with the 6.4L PowerStroke; It is very different from the previous 6.0, it compares more closely to the International Maxxforce 7. They put 16mm head studs replacing the 14mm on the 6.0, a well known problem! This engine has the common rail injection design (High Pressure fuel) eliminating the problematic high pressure oil system the early 6.0 had. The emissions control on this engine are crazy to the point were you wont get any soot from the stock Exhaust system. You can't just cut out the stock exhaust and strait pipe with out running into electrical problems with your DPF and EGR valve. The up-most down fall is fuel economy, you might squeeze 9 mpgs if your lucky. Spec Chart...
6.7L "Scorpion" there isn't much info out on these yet, but very exited to find out. Reversed intake & exhaust flow. Intake valves located on the outside of the cylinder head, while exhaust exits into the engine valley where the turbocharger is mounted. Increases thermal efficiency of the turbocharger. Glow plug that enable an almost instant start. They say you can run alternative fuels such as B20 Bio-Diesel. All this info is speculative.
The 6.7 L Cummins is the latest in the B-series engines, introduced mid year in 2007. 40% of the privious 5.9 L 24-valve ISB was put into this 6.7 making it a very similar engine. Again the emission regulations are much more strict. They come directly from the factory fitted with a integrated exhaust brake system. Also capable of running certain forms of Bio-Diesel.
Future Cummins... I have now Idea when they will be realest, but I know Chrysler asked Cummins to design these future Engines:
5.6L V-8 Cummins Diesel
4.2L V-6 Cummins Diesel
I will not lie, I know nothing about the Duramax diesel, Shock and aw when I found they put the Allison 1000 Transmission on them. Can I have one for my B-day?
Duramax 6.6L LMM is the newest model previously LB7, LLY, LBZ, & now LMM. All of these Duramax 6600 models have evolved since 2001. Again all these new engines are answering to higher emission demands, thus damaging the end result in performance.
For the future release 4.5L Duramax LMK. Could be an amazing engine, Don't know yet.
Steve help me out if you want to add to, or correct my info. I would like to talk about the Transmissions, Suspension, ect. in the future. It's hard to write about these things considering it is just stats, reliability is yet unknown. I would like this page to be a place were there is a close comparison of these engines. Most of my info I will site to 'here'. The rest is first hand knowledge or testimonies found on places like YouTube.
future swaps...
This being the last full semester of school I'm looking forward to graduating and getting a real job. With the real job will come more free time and money which will all help my diesel hobby progress to new levels. I am planning several swaps in the coming years and each one I plan on documenting. I know there are thousands of diesel fans out there who would like to actually see how a swap is done, after all there is a general lack of information available about such a feat. So I plan on either hiring a videographer or just getting a buddy (or wife) to film the swaps to post on youtube. Personally, if such a video existed I probably would have watched it a hundred times...
My short list of swaps are as follows:
Cummins 4bt in a wrangler
This will likely be my first swap. I want a vehicle that I can use in the place of my truck that will get better fuel economy. The 4bt will be a rather simple swap because the engine will be mechanical.
A wrangler something like this....
7.3L in my '79 Ford
In honor of the old 7.3L motor I've decided to swap one in my '79 ford flatbed dually. This swap will also be relatively easy with a donor truck. I plan on getting a newer ('96+) ford donor and rebuilding the engine and adding some new after market parts. This will probably be the cheapest swap so it might actually come first.
This is my '79... needs a little body work but I think chrome stacks would set it off... so would the throaty rumble of a 7.3 straight piped.
A CAT c7 or 3126 in something...
The common rail c7 would probably be my engine of choice if I could remove some of the emissions stuff... the only problem is I can't decide what vehicle it should go in... it would need to be a good one because this would definitely be a show truck. The amount of money and work that would go into this swap means I probably won't do it for a few years although this is the one that people want to see the most.
This is a candidate I'm considering... this was my first diesel truck... beautiful... would be even better with a little yellow under the hood.
Old Chevy rust bucket...
I would like to see a common rail Cummins or an old 12 valve in an old rust bucket chevy. The chevy in the picture below is perfect... no exterior restoration needed just leave the beautiful ruggedness the way it is...
Anyways, I'm done with school in June!!! and as soon as I get settled wherever I end up I'm going to start documenting a swap!!!
My short list of swaps are as follows:
Cummins 4bt in a wrangler
This will likely be my first swap. I want a vehicle that I can use in the place of my truck that will get better fuel economy. The 4bt will be a rather simple swap because the engine will be mechanical.
A wrangler something like this....
7.3L in my '79 Ford
In honor of the old 7.3L motor I've decided to swap one in my '79 ford flatbed dually. This swap will also be relatively easy with a donor truck. I plan on getting a newer ('96+) ford donor and rebuilding the engine and adding some new after market parts. This will probably be the cheapest swap so it might actually come first.
This is my '79... needs a little body work but I think chrome stacks would set it off... so would the throaty rumble of a 7.3 straight piped.
A CAT c7 or 3126 in something...
The common rail c7 would probably be my engine of choice if I could remove some of the emissions stuff... the only problem is I can't decide what vehicle it should go in... it would need to be a good one because this would definitely be a show truck. The amount of money and work that would go into this swap means I probably won't do it for a few years although this is the one that people want to see the most.
This is a candidate I'm considering... this was my first diesel truck... beautiful... would be even better with a little yellow under the hood.
Old Chevy rust bucket...
I would like to see a common rail Cummins or an old 12 valve in an old rust bucket chevy. The chevy in the picture below is perfect... no exterior restoration needed just leave the beautiful ruggedness the way it is...
Anyways, I'm done with school in June!!! and as soon as I get settled wherever I end up I'm going to start documenting a swap!!!
Friday, January 15, 2010
Mercedes 5 cyl. Diesel
I found some info on the diesel that they most often put in the dodge sprinter these days. Spec Sheet
Not the most impressive numbers, but great potential for some small upgrades, and considering it's a rather small engine, it would be perfect for a jeep project. I am disappointed in the rest of the vehicle, but that's beside the point. there is so little info about this engine it's hard to judge to soon. Being only 2.7L you could almost fit it in a toyota prius, Speaking of a prius...
Just found a forum that looks cool.. and others. Forums. 1 2
Oh and this just look like great fun for a small price, Here!
Not the most impressive numbers, but great potential for some small upgrades, and considering it's a rather small engine, it would be perfect for a jeep project. I am disappointed in the rest of the vehicle, but that's beside the point. there is so little info about this engine it's hard to judge to soon. Being only 2.7L you could almost fit it in a toyota prius, Speaking of a prius...
Just found a forum that looks cool.. and others. Forums. 1 2
Oh and this just look like great fun for a small price, Here!
Wednesday, January 13, 2010
Monday, January 11, 2010
CAT 3126 'C7' in a pickup
So it's something that most of us have probably thought about at one time or another: why doesn't Ford or Chevy put a cat diesel in a pickup? Well, this most definitely is a good question because there is no good answer. Sure you might say that CAT doesn't have the production capability or maybe they don't have a properly sized engine, but those are all things that could be worked out, after all Cummins did it right? CAT already supplies engines for the 600+ series Chevy and Ford trucks, why not one for the 350's?
So if the big companies aren't going to put one in for us then the only remaining option we have is to do it the redneck way: install one ourselves. In all my countless hours of research online I can find hardly any information about such a swap. Sure people like to talk about the possibility of a swap but there is little concrete evidence of very many people actually following through. The cummins 5.9 on the other hand has been swapped into about everything except a wheel chair... (I would be surprised if someone had though). So, what is stopping rednecks and engine enthusiasts from dropping CAT's into pickups?
1. Cost
The easiest way to perform a swap is to buy a donor vehicle. With the Cummins there are of course plenty of donor vehicle around, the CAT on the other hand has few.
2. It's a big one
I personally believe that a c7 could be fairly easily shoehorned under the hood of a pickup, but there are those that have their doubts. With a sawzall and a welder one can usually always make a little more room, besides, judging by the way my cummins fits into my Ford, the only real space issues would be with height and length, otherwise an inline 6 generally has plenty of side room to spare. Just compare the look of a powerstroke or a duramax with a cummins... it's a wonder they can fit those V8's in there. And as for weight, the CAT engine only weighs a couple hundred more pounds than a Cummins. However, it is a monster.
3. Is it really any better?
This is really the only factor that would put a damper on my will to carry out a CAT swap... CAT is a bit of an icon among boys who love big toys. Drive by any construction site and you will likely see some huge equipment plastered with the CAT logo. As a result of the general brawniness of the name, dudes want to be associated with the power. Now I have no doubt that CAT makes some of the best construction equipment out there but are the engines really any better than Cummins?.. well, no... I don't think so... at least as far as a pickup size is concerned. If you are talking about semi truck sized motors CAT fans may have a better argument, but as for the smaller motors I think Cummins would probably win. Several reasons:
a. Lack of aftermarket parts... Plenty for the cummins, almost zero for the CAT
b. CAT uses the HUEI injection system (like the Ford 7.3/6.0) which is not as good for making big aftermarket power.
c. Many people argue that the CAT C7 is not as reliable of an engine compared to the Cummins 6bt... especially the newer emissions compliant engines.
Anyways, despite the reality of the situation, I still want a CAT in a regular pickup and I'm determined to do a swap someday. What I plan is to buy an older (2000+) ford 650 and use it as a donor vehicle. I realize there would be a ton of customization to be done but I think it would be worth it. I have seen good CAT 650's in the $5,000-$10,000 range which isn't bad for a diesel donor vehicle. Compare the torque specs. from the 2 engines and it's apparent that the CAT really wouldn't be disappointing with 860 lb-ft at only 1440 rpm... wow...
This is one of the few photos of a C7 squeezed into an F-350... notice that while it takes up all the room lengthwise, there appears to be plenty of side room. There is even room for a clutch fan... something that didn't fit in my cummins... I would definitely have done a remote battery install and moved the BHAF to the front to make sure there was room for twin turbos.
This is under the bonnet of my '65 Ford with a 5.9L Cummins... plenty of room to spare.
As you can see the CAT is definitely bigger but also definitely fits... I can't wait to do this swap...
This link has a bunch of swap photos including the following CAT
Again in this photo the BHAF air filter needs to be moved where the battery is... Things could be rearranged... These guys do not recommend this swap but as far as I can tell they did not have a donor vehicle which would make loads of difference.
Specifications fot the newest CAT C7
Cylinders In-Line 6
Bore/Stroke 4.33 x 5.00 (110mm x 127mm)
Displacement 7.2 L (441 cu in)
Weight 1425 lb (647 kg)
Horsepower 300 @ 2500/2400 rpm
Torque 860 lb-ft @ 1440 rpm
Specifications for the newest Cummins 6.7L
Displacement: 408 cubic inches, 6.7 liters
Configuration: Inline 6 cylinder
Compression Ratio: 17.3:1
Bore: 4.21 inches
Stroke: 4.88 inches
Injection: Direct injection: Electronically controlled Bosch high pressure common rail; 26,000 psi max.
Aspiration: Variable geometry turbocharger
Valvetrain: OHV, 4 valves per cylinder, solid lifter camshaft
Oil Capacity: 12 quarts
Weight: Aprox. 1,150lb.
Horsepower: 350 HP @ 3,013 RPM
Torque:650 lb-ft @ 1,500 RPM
This is the type of donor vehicle that would be needed. The CAT looks so small in the huge engine compartment... I have high hopes.
So if the big companies aren't going to put one in for us then the only remaining option we have is to do it the redneck way: install one ourselves. In all my countless hours of research online I can find hardly any information about such a swap. Sure people like to talk about the possibility of a swap but there is little concrete evidence of very many people actually following through. The cummins 5.9 on the other hand has been swapped into about everything except a wheel chair... (I would be surprised if someone had though). So, what is stopping rednecks and engine enthusiasts from dropping CAT's into pickups?
1. Cost
The easiest way to perform a swap is to buy a donor vehicle. With the Cummins there are of course plenty of donor vehicle around, the CAT on the other hand has few.
2. It's a big one
I personally believe that a c7 could be fairly easily shoehorned under the hood of a pickup, but there are those that have their doubts. With a sawzall and a welder one can usually always make a little more room, besides, judging by the way my cummins fits into my Ford, the only real space issues would be with height and length, otherwise an inline 6 generally has plenty of side room to spare. Just compare the look of a powerstroke or a duramax with a cummins... it's a wonder they can fit those V8's in there. And as for weight, the CAT engine only weighs a couple hundred more pounds than a Cummins. However, it is a monster.
3. Is it really any better?
This is really the only factor that would put a damper on my will to carry out a CAT swap... CAT is a bit of an icon among boys who love big toys. Drive by any construction site and you will likely see some huge equipment plastered with the CAT logo. As a result of the general brawniness of the name, dudes want to be associated with the power. Now I have no doubt that CAT makes some of the best construction equipment out there but are the engines really any better than Cummins?.. well, no... I don't think so... at least as far as a pickup size is concerned. If you are talking about semi truck sized motors CAT fans may have a better argument, but as for the smaller motors I think Cummins would probably win. Several reasons:
a. Lack of aftermarket parts... Plenty for the cummins, almost zero for the CAT
b. CAT uses the HUEI injection system (like the Ford 7.3/6.0) which is not as good for making big aftermarket power.
c. Many people argue that the CAT C7 is not as reliable of an engine compared to the Cummins 6bt... especially the newer emissions compliant engines.
Anyways, despite the reality of the situation, I still want a CAT in a regular pickup and I'm determined to do a swap someday. What I plan is to buy an older (2000+) ford 650 and use it as a donor vehicle. I realize there would be a ton of customization to be done but I think it would be worth it. I have seen good CAT 650's in the $5,000-$10,000 range which isn't bad for a diesel donor vehicle. Compare the torque specs. from the 2 engines and it's apparent that the CAT really wouldn't be disappointing with 860 lb-ft at only 1440 rpm... wow...
This is one of the few photos of a C7 squeezed into an F-350... notice that while it takes up all the room lengthwise, there appears to be plenty of side room. There is even room for a clutch fan... something that didn't fit in my cummins... I would definitely have done a remote battery install and moved the BHAF to the front to make sure there was room for twin turbos.
This is under the bonnet of my '65 Ford with a 5.9L Cummins... plenty of room to spare.
As you can see the CAT is definitely bigger but also definitely fits... I can't wait to do this swap...
This link has a bunch of swap photos including the following CAT
Again in this photo the BHAF air filter needs to be moved where the battery is... Things could be rearranged... These guys do not recommend this swap but as far as I can tell they did not have a donor vehicle which would make loads of difference.
Specifications fot the newest CAT C7
Cylinders In-Line 6
Bore/Stroke 4.33 x 5.00 (110mm x 127mm)
Displacement 7.2 L (441 cu in)
Weight 1425 lb (647 kg)
Horsepower 300 @ 2500/2400 rpm
Torque 860 lb-ft @ 1440 rpm
Specifications for the newest Cummins 6.7L
Displacement: 408 cubic inches, 6.7 liters
Configuration: Inline 6 cylinder
Compression Ratio: 17.3:1
Bore: 4.21 inches
Stroke: 4.88 inches
Injection: Direct injection: Electronically controlled Bosch high pressure common rail; 26,000 psi max.
Aspiration: Variable geometry turbocharger
Valvetrain: OHV, 4 valves per cylinder, solid lifter camshaft
Oil Capacity: 12 quarts
Weight: Aprox. 1,150lb.
Horsepower: 350 HP @ 3,013 RPM
Torque:650 lb-ft @ 1,500 RPM
This is the type of donor vehicle that would be needed. The CAT looks so small in the huge engine compartment... I have high hopes.
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